How to get rid of rats in the roof
Find and close the entry point, then deal with the population - in that order. Trapping or baiting without proofing clears the current rats and leaves the door open for the next. Most roof access comes from a branch overhanging the roofline, then in through a gap at the eaves, a lifted roofing sheet or an open soffit.
The entry point matters more than the bait
This is the thing people get the wrong way round. Clearing the rats currently in your roof is the easy part; stopping the next lot is what actually ends the problem.
If you've had rats three times in two years, you don't have a rat problem - you have an unsealed building with a rat population nearby.
Where they get in
- A tree branch overhanging the roof - the single most common route
- Gaps at the eaves or soffit
- Lifted or damaged roofing sheets and ridge capping
- Where pipes or cables enter the building
- Broken or missing air bricks and subfloor vents
Trim the branches
Rats aren't climbing your walls; they're walking along a branch and stepping onto the roof. Cutting overhanging growth back from the roofline is free, takes an afternoon, and does more than any amount of bait.
Rats or mice, and does it matter?
It changes the approach. Droppings are the quickest check: mouse droppings are around 3-6mm and look like dark grains of rice, rat droppings are 12-18mm and much thicker. Noise helps too - mice are light and scratchy, rats are heavy enough that you can hear individual footfalls.
Something much heavier again, with thumping and a low growl, is a possum, and that's a different job entirely.
Check the insulation afterwards
Rats nest in insulation and foul it. Once the population is dealt with, it's worth looking at what's up there - badly contaminated insulation doesn't recover and is both a smell and a health issue.
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Frequently asked questions
How do I know if it's rats or possums in my roof?
Why do rats keep coming back to my roof?
Do I need to replace the insulation?
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